How to install, repair, remove, replace a fence post the easy way

Here's how to fix , repair and replace broken fence posts and poles easily as long as things are thought ahead and you used the fence post socket system before using concrete and cement

You can purchase the bags on ebay by serching the words
fence post socket
or by clicking on

more info about the method with FAQ on

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Added: 5 years
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Author easyfencing . (9 days)
comments that cannot replied to will be deleted

Author GoodLife (1 month)
I am a professional fence installer and NO NO NO NO

Author uni000ver000sal (2 months)
I normally get a Mexican do this for me.!

Author roland fosdike (19 days)
Proud to be British !!!!!! ;)

Author easyfencing . (1 year)
bold italics strike through
* * _ _ - -
*bold* *italics* strike through 

Author Marnie K (1 year)
I can't imagine the sand staying dry for years.

Author yopagedotcom (4 months)
I can't believe I sat through this...

Author Harry Klair (1 month)
Well I'll be a monkey's uncle!
That is Brilliant!

Author Cynthia Emmett (2 months)
The Post Collar- the only way. You dont need a metal
anchor or shrink wrapped posts.. Fast easy and inexpensive to install. Can
be installed to existing fences.

Author rickster348 (6 months)
just pack high explosives around the old posts and light the fuse., - Be
sure no kids or pets are around.

Author Saint Boudreau (6 months)
just bury a 6 inch 18 inch long pc pvc put in 4x 4 and reuse easy 

Author John Magnus (3 months)
Check out

Author D Fence (27 days)
Great video. Another addition to your fence post replacement is to install
a D-Fence post protector that comes in two sizes to fit a 4x4 or 6x6 wood
post. This will significantly prolong and protect the life of your fence
post. Check it out You can't find a cheaper insurance for
your fence

Author tabcobra (2 months)
Or, just use galvanized steel posts and forget about it. Wood posts are

Author interstice (7 months)
Or just properly mix your concrete outside the hole and form a concrete
dome that brings the concrete level slightly above grade.. This prevents
water/mud from sitting at the base of the post. Treat your lumber as

Author H. Gluth (10 months)
I never use cement. I live in Canada and I use pressure treated 6x6 inch
posts and put them down about four feet into the ground...well below the
frost line so they do not move with the freeze and thaw. This ensures the
fence remains vertical. I pack the base of the hole below the post with
sand or gravel to allow water a place to drain, and the rest is packed with
clay above the grade of the lawn to ensure drainage. ( I live on an
ancient lake bed). This fence should last at least 15 years before any
post repair is needed.....if not more. If you are puttting a fence in
sandy or gravely ground which do not need cement and the
water will run away so that your posts will stay dry and last a long time.
When you put a post in acts like a bowl and traps your water
and helps to speed up the the decay of the post, once water can seep in and
It is a real pain in the arse once you have to repair such fences. A
normal jack-all used to jack up 1/2 ton trucks is all you need to get the
non cemented posts out of the ground......wrap a chain around the post and
bolt the chain ends good. Another option would be to
somehow get your posts above ground by making a cement or stone base....but
the base would have to be stable....could end up with a real nice fence

Author Chris jW (9 months)
Too little; too late - for an existing problem.

Author James Metting (6 months)
Does pow'r lift have 12 volt hoist? For 1300' lbs

Author OpinionatedMonk (3 months)
Totally appropriate music. 

Author Javier Rendon (8 months)
Where can buy the plastic bag for pole of 4"X4"?
Great video. Thanks

Author jimbe1969 (10 months)
Use a farm jack and a chain, or cut them below grade and move the holes
over a foot. Done.

Author Dan Lockeed (1 year)
I've been around the fence industry for about 32 years, member of the AFA
and must admit, we always rack our skulls trying to come up with ways of
getting them stumps out,
Good vid my fence friend!

Author thidarat phosuwan (11 months)
Check out this video on YouTube:

Author TFSFireman (1 year)
Hi fencing. I have seen your video before, and this is a very cool method
In reply to the comments you made on my video, it was a cardboard Sonotube
I used. The installation method I used followed the manufacturer's
instructions exactly.

Author Justin Bardwell (1 year)
If the post has sand around it, the post can move. The whole point of
concrete is to anchor the post into the ground, it should be difficult to
remove. There are plenty of products which to coat posts with so they do
not rot to begin with for many years. Fences usually don't last more then
10 years because people are lazy and do not take proper care of the wood
IMO. Where I live, a hurricane would move these around no problem. 

Author Kelly Kincaid (1 year)
Wow sure does look easy by following your video! This design ROCKS!!!!

Author QuantumRift (1 year)
Two words: Expanding foam.

Author Stuart Petty (1 year)
Really smart idea, Im guessing you're english ?

Author Mark Wheatley (11 months)
Great video many thanks for sharing

Author skeletorsminion (10 months)
Not sure if this is a dumb question but when you go to replace the old pole
with the new, how do you get a tight grip around the new pole? Obviously
the first pole will have the pressure of the concrete weighing in on it and
it will be snug but if you put the new pole in and then pack sand around it
wont it move?

Author mark wheatley (1 year)
Great Video many thanks for sharing
Fence Protector

Author Henri McCarthy (1 year)
Or use a concrete post that never rots 

Author mike ferguson (1 year)
I would need this music as well, to finish this project properly...

Author BK A (9 months)
Much simpler to use a sleeve, which is easier to set in the concrete, then
drop the post in. Once it rots, slip it out and drop a new one in.

Author mfhmonkey (1 year)
Rain will be absorbed by the post and work its way down into the plastic
bag. Now I am willing to bet the post will rot faster.

Author Todd Paroline (1 year)
A+ on marketing. F- product knowledge. Before using this product I would
suggest you talk to a local fence company that can inform you about all the
flaws in this application. There are way too many to list. Do appreciate
the music.

Author elnigma (1 year)
I want dramatic music for putting fence in

Author wiseranjuan (1 year)
treated wood and the concrete always more high then the dirt will give u
longer life to your fence and for the treated wood always use galvanize

Author 74nickk (1 year)
yeeeeeeeea thanx

Author QU3STION5 . (1 year)
I have 3 sets of post foundations in the ground along my fence line (3
generations worth) I think I've allowed enough for one more set after the
strong winds have eventually blown this standing fence over. Big concrete
post foundations as well. I won't be living here then though. I feel sorry
for the poor sod who'll have to deal with it one day in the future. lol.
Unless he's got a machine and getting paid for it that is.

Author Craig Ostlund (1 year)
I like people who think; who challenge convention and the status quo. I
like innovation. I like where you are going with this. As a landscape
contractor I built super fences, the big money kind and the kind that
stayed around and never sagged or fell apart. We did more than 99% of
others because we didn't want to do that kind of work. So, a for my few
comments, I beg your indulgence, with respect.

1. If you go back to your post after a long period of wet weather you will
likely find that despite your excellent efforts the post is wet. Nobody
really seals wood because by its nature it is meant to have capillary
action to convey water up and down while it is living. A proper setting of
any post will leave the bottom of the post resting on a gravel bed to bring
it to proper height and may even have an inch or two of gravel up the
sides. I don't find that necessary but some do. But the open bottom and
around 4" of 3/4" gravel will provide a drain and serve as a conduit to
allow moisture to evaporate. If its capped in concrete at the bottom it
will fill with water to the height of a fracture or porous section. There
it will harbor micro-organisms and have a party. If the concrete manages
not to crack or leak, unusual but it happens, especially if the hole digger
dug a very large hole filling around the post with 2-4" of mix at the
corners, then you have a veritable tub of water, ...till it freezes. And
the upper part of the post which has been soaking in water will freeze
too. This causes expansion of the water as it turn to ice, ripping the
wood fibers apart, a little at a time. So I suggest just let it and bottom.

2. You could use a garden hose on high, pushing it down the side in the
sand and it will cause liquefaction, resulting in a very fluid sandy-water
solution which is easily moved about like quick-sand that gives things
back! In most cases you can lift the post out in a few seconds.

Hope I made sense. I'll give your idea a go. One more thought just hit
me. If the soil shifted and a post needed minor correction, and if your
system was in place, pushing a few pieces of 1/2" tubing down the sides and
turning on the water just might float the sand enough (it literally becomes
liquid) to set it straight.
Or it could be a mean practical joke taking it the other direction!!

Author Ricky Singh (1 year)
Nice system and idea! Just wanted to share a tip for those who are trying
to install posts, instead of using concrete I used this Fast 2K
Demonstration Video. Was a lot faster and easier, this would work well with
the product in this video. Hope this helps.

Author 2pacnasgame (1 year)
I need a 100 bags asap

Author horseshoe182 (1 year)
so you play the music as you put the fence post in, is that right.
but seriously,i think concreting posts is impractical for people on
acreage. well i have a small acreage property with post and rail, and i'm
sick of digging out concreted posts that were put in by the previous
owner.. i put in my posts without concert. and you just ram the earth
around the post as you fill it in. the posts don't move. saves time and
money. if you can get some real clever termites to eat the old broken post
and then smash in a new post in the old concrete hole ,might be good.

Author mikey8strokes (1 year)
very good

Author ⓟⓛⓐⓢⓜⓐ ᕈᒪᗩᔕᙢᗩ John Doe (1 year)
posioness chemicals

Author Bob Broc (1 year)
There is a product called ROTBLOC made from recycled rubber, that can be
custom cut on the job site or retro-fitted to any size wood post,
protecting it from organic fungi, insects and moisture. You can buy it off
of the website. They have a facebook page as well with install photos.

Author Don theford (1 year)
it will last the same concrete or foam it going to hold moister

Author FantastikFences (2 years)
Lol... Really, who came up with this? Not a fence builder... I will not
enumerate the many reasons why this is bananas. I've been building wood
fences for 10 years, all custom all the time (in Canada) & we change posts,
often enough by hand like men. The best part of that video is watching
those trucks pulling posts out. Who works like this??

Author ijustwanttoseetitty (1 year)
The easiest way to do this would be by altering step # 1 slightly, do away
with the wooden post and use a concrete one for a start you cheap skate!

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