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How to install, repair, remove, replace a fence post the easy way



Here's how to fix , repair and replace broken fence posts and poles easily as long as things are thought ahead and you used the fence post socket system before using concrete and cement

You can purchase the bags on ebay by serching the words
fence post socket
or by clicking on

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/easyfencing/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686

http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/easyfencing/


more info about the method with FAQ on http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-fix-and-then-extract-a-fence-post-with-ease/

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Added: 4 years
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Comments:

Author easyfencing . (2 months)
comments that cannot replied to will be deleted

Author rickster348 (2 days)
just pack high explosives around the old posts and light the fuse., - Be
sure no kids or pets are around.

Author Javier Rendon (2 months)
Where can buy the plastic bag for pole of 4"X4"?
Great video. Thanks

Author easyfencing . (8 months)
bold italics strike through
* * _ _ - -
*bold* *italics* strike through 

Author Saint Boudreau (7 days)
just bury a 6 inch 18 inch long pc pvc put in 4x 4 and reuse easy 

Author interstice (1 month)
Or just properly mix your concrete outside the hole and form a concrete
dome that brings the concrete level slightly above grade.. This prevents
water/mud from sitting at the base of the post. Treat your lumber as
needed...

Author jimbe1969 (4 months)
Use a farm jack and a chain, or cut them below grade and move the holes
over a foot. Done.

Author H. Gluth (4 months)
I never use cement. I live in Canada and I use pressure treated 6x6 inch
posts and put them down about four feet into the ground...well below the
frost line so they do not move with the freeze and thaw. This ensures the
fence remains vertical. I pack the base of the hole below the post with
sand or gravel to allow water a place to drain, and the rest is packed with
clay above the grade of the lawn to ensure drainage. ( I live on an
ancient lake bed). This fence should last at least 15 years before any
post repair is needed.....if not more. If you are puttting a fence in
sandy or gravely ground which drains.........you do not need cement and the
water will run away so that your posts will stay dry and last a long time.
When you put a post in cement....it acts like a bowl and traps your water
and helps to speed up the the decay of the post, once water can seep in and
It is a real pain in the arse once you have to repair such fences. A
normal jack-all used to jack up 1/2 ton trucks is all you need to get the
non cemented posts out of the ground......wrap a chain around the post and
bolt the chain ends together....works good. Another option would be to
somehow get your posts above ground by making a cement or stone base....but
the base would have to be stable....could end up with a real nice fence
though.

Author Dan Lockeed (6 months)
I've been around the fence industry for about 32 years, member of the AFA
and must admit, we always rack our skulls trying to come up with ways of
getting them stumps out,
Good vid my fence friend!

Author Chris jW (3 months)
Too little; too late - for an existing problem.

Author Justin Bardwell (6 months)
If the post has sand around it, the post can move. The whole point of
concrete is to anchor the post into the ground, it should be difficult to
remove. There are plenty of products which to coat posts with so they do
not rot to begin with for many years. Fences usually don't last more then
10 years because people are lazy and do not take proper care of the wood
IMO. Where I live, a hurricane would move these around no problem. 

Author Marnie K (6 months)
I can't imagine the sand staying dry for years.

Author QuantumRift (6 months)
Two words: Expanding foam.

Author TFSFireman (6 months)
Hi fencing. I have seen your video before, and this is a very cool method
too.
In reply to the comments you made on my video, it was a cardboard Sonotube
I used. The installation method I used followed the manufacturer's
instructions exactly.

Author mfhmonkey (7 months)
Rain will be absorbed by the post and work its way down into the plastic
bag. Now I am willing to bet the post will rot faster.

Author thidarat phosuwan (5 months)
Check out this video on YouTube:

Author Mark Wheatley (5 months)
Great video many thanks for sharing
www.fenceprotector.co.uk

Author skeletorsminion (4 months)
Not sure if this is a dumb question but when you go to replace the old pole
with the new, how do you get a tight grip around the new pole? Obviously
the first pole will have the pressure of the concrete weighing in on it and
it will be snug but if you put the new pole in and then pack sand around it
wont it move?

Author Stuart Petty (8 months)
Really smart idea, Im guessing you're english ?

Author mark wheatley (6 months)
Great Video many thanks for sharing
Fence Protector
www.fenceprotector.co.uk

Author Henri McCarthy (7 months)
Or use a concrete post that never rots 

Author Kelly Kincaid (7 months)
Wow sure does look easy by following your video! This design ROCKS!!!!
Cheers

Author Craig Ostlund (9 months)
I like people who think; who challenge convention and the status quo. I
like innovation. I like where you are going with this. As a landscape
contractor I built super fences, the big money kind and the kind that
stayed around and never sagged or fell apart. We did more than 99% of
others because we didn't want to do that kind of work. So, a for my few
comments, I beg your indulgence, with respect.

1. If you go back to your post after a long period of wet weather you will
likely find that despite your excellent efforts the post is wet. Nobody
really seals wood because by its nature it is meant to have capillary
action to convey water up and down while it is living. A proper setting of
any post will leave the bottom of the post resting on a gravel bed to bring
it to proper height and may even have an inch or two of gravel up the
sides. I don't find that necessary but some do. But the open bottom and
around 4" of 3/4" gravel will provide a drain and serve as a conduit to
allow moisture to evaporate. If its capped in concrete at the bottom it
will fill with water to the height of a fracture or porous section. There
it will harbor micro-organisms and have a party. If the concrete manages
not to crack or leak, unusual but it happens, especially if the hole digger
dug a very large hole filling around the post with 2-4" of mix at the
corners, then you have a veritable tub of water, ...till it freezes. And
the upper part of the post which has been soaking in water will freeze
too. This causes expansion of the water as it turn to ice, ripping the
wood fibers apart, a little at a time. So I suggest just let it
breathe...top and bottom.

2. You could use a garden hose on high, pushing it down the side in the
sand and it will cause liquefaction, resulting in a very fluid sandy-water
solution which is easily moved about like quick-sand that gives things
back! In most cases you can lift the post out in a few seconds.

Hope I made sense. I'll give your idea a go. One more thought just hit
me. If the soil shifted and a post needed minor correction, and if your
system was in place, pushing a few pieces of 1/2" tubing down the sides and
turning on the water just might float the sand enough (it literally becomes
liquid) to set it straight.
Or it could be a mean practical joke taking it the other direction!!

Author BK A (3 months)
Much simpler to use a sleeve, which is easier to set in the concrete, then
drop the post in. Once it rots, slip it out and drop a new one in.

Author QU3STION5 . (6 months)
I have 3 sets of post foundations in the ground along my fence line (3
generations worth) I think I've allowed enough for one more set after the
strong winds have eventually blown this standing fence over. Big concrete
post foundations as well. I won't be living here then though. I feel sorry
for the poor sod who'll have to deal with it one day in the future. lol.
Unless he's got a machine and getting paid for it that is.

Author Todd Paroline (9 months)
A+ on marketing. F- product knowledge. Before using this product I would
suggest you talk to a local fence company that can inform you about all the
flaws in this application. There are way too many to list. Do appreciate
the music.

Author wiseranjuan (6 months)
treated wood and the concrete always more high then the dirt will give u
longer life to your fence and for the treated wood always use galvanize
nails

Author 74nickk (6 months)
yeeeeeeeea thanx

Author elnigma (11 months)
I want dramatic music for putting fence in

Author Ricky Singh (8 months)
Nice system and idea! Just wanted to share a tip for those who are trying
to install posts, instead of using concrete I used this Fast 2K
Demonstration Video. Was a lot faster and easier, this would work well with
the product in this video. Hope this helps.

Author John Doe (7 months)
posioness chemicals

Author horseshoe182 (9 months)
so you play the music as you put the fence post in, is that right.
but seriously,i think concreting posts is impractical for people on
acreage. well i have a small acreage property with post and rail, and i'm
sick of digging out concreted posts that were put in by the previous
owner.. i put in my posts without concert. and you just ram the earth
around the post as you fill it in. the posts don't move. saves time and
money. if you can get some real clever termites to eat the old broken post
and then smash in a new post in the old concrete hole ,might be good.

Author mikey8strokes (10 months)
very good

Author Bob Broc (11 months)
There is a product called ROTBLOC made from recycled rubber, that can be
custom cut on the job site or retro-fitted to any size wood post,
protecting it from organic fungi, insects and moisture. You can buy it off
of the website. They have a facebook page as well with install photos.

Author mike ferguson (11 months)
I would need this music as well, to finish this project properly...

Author 2pacnasgame (10 months)
I need a 100 bags asap

Author Don theford (1 year)
it will last the same concrete or foam it going to hold moister

Author FantastikFences (1 year)
Lol... Really, who came up with this? Not a fence builder... I will not
enumerate the many reasons why this is bananas. I've been building wood
fences for 10 years, all custom all the time (in Canada) & we change posts,
often enough by hand like men. The best part of that video is watching
those trucks pulling posts out. Who works like this??

Author ijustwanttoseetitty (1 year)
The easiest way to do this would be by altering step # 1 slightly, do away
with the wooden post and use a concrete one for a start you cheap skate!

Author TheDeckingnsw (3 years)
gal post why would you use timber

Author easyfencing . (1 year)
#4 as stated a vacuum cleaner or heavy duty tools.. it's a choice. no
offence at all as I said, it is a choice #5 this method is also very
useful if you need to remove the posts temporarily, it gives a degree of
flexibility.

Author Yvette Moore (1 year)
I need to find a way to remove Leylandii stumps and roots without breaking
my back (I have arthritis and no macho bloke around to help) it's either
that or pay the best part of a grand for someone else to do it :o( The wind
here is so awful that putting up panels is pointless. It has to be boards
with a small gap between each. I've been looking but other than elbow
grease (which I'm not physically up to) I've found nowt.

Author easyfencing . (2 years)
approx 15mins extra per post compared to the inevitable alternative of at
least 1 hour extra of hard work and without the need of heavy duty tools
when you need to replace it......

Author mccarty7video (1 year)
What is the piece of music in the beginning of the video? Thanks

Author Heavyboxes (1 year)
It's highly illegal to use sand...let alone vacuum it.

Author cbuddy812 (1 year)
We always just dug a half moon shape on one side of the old post, poped it
loose with a spud bar wrapped a come-a-long around the Crete ball and
cranked it out of the ground. Takes about 5 minutes .if you know what
you're doing...

Author easyfencing . (1 year)
previous post dated 2 years ago "like I said it depends on the custom of
the country and what people are used to. It is not good nor bad, just the
way it is and improvements are there to be considered. Another advantage
of the post socket system is that it can also work for metal or concrete
posts as you can temporarily remove the post should you need to do so e.g.
make room for large machinery (it can happen) . In that case any post would
be in the way. "

Author easyfencing . (1 year)
fence with 10 posts. only one post breaks and only one post needs
repairing. QED

Author easyfencing . (1 year)
This method adds approx $7 per post but saves to buy / hire tools or hire a
professional like you and me at fee of 50~100$, As per the vinyl method try
it and see how well it works. Obviously you haven' tried it, it is just an
idea you put down. As you pull the tight fitting inevitably creates
attrition and pressure areas that makes the job very difficult. A clear
wide gap left by the missing sand solves any problem. Still waiting for
your video of short lived 1/2hp power man Vs 3hp breaker.

Author MrBarefootPookie (1 year)
#4 - To remove an old post that is still intact, dig next to it with post
hole diggers until you reach the bottom, then wiggle it back and forth
until it gets loose and 95% of the time it will pull right up. If the post
is broken, this way will work too but if you cant pull it out use a heavy
duty ratchet strap to wrap tight around it and use a heavy duty bar to pull
up and out. NO offense to the guy who spent time making the video, but
silicone is not the answer. Cement does the job.

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