How to install, repair, remove, replace a fence post the easy way

Here's how to fix , repair and replace broken fence posts and poles easily as long as things are thought ahead and you used the fence post socket system before using concrete and cement

You can purchase the bags on ebay by serching the words
fence post socket
or by clicking on

more info about the method with FAQ on

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Author Stuart Petty (2 months)
Really smart idea, Im guessing you're english ?

Author easyfencing . (2 months)
bold italics strike through
* * _ _ - -
*bold* *italics* strike through 

Author TFSFireman (3 days)
Hi fencing. I have seen your video before, and this is a very cool method
In reply to the comments you made on my video, it was a cardboard Sonotube
I used. The installation method I used followed the manufacturer's
instructions exactly.

Author QuantumRift (4 days)
Two words: Expanding foam.

Author mark wheatley (6 days)
Great Video many thanks for sharing
Fence Protector

Author mfhmonkey (27 days)
Rain will be absorbed by the post and work its way down into the plastic
bag. Now I am willing to bet the post will rot faster.

Author Vera Kayky (28 days)
classic dramatic music and a fence sounds like lipstick on a pig's ass

Author Nick Burg (17 days)
uhm, -> CONNEX Pfostenträger

Author mike ferguson (4 months)
I would need this music as well, to finish this project properly...

Author elnigma (5 months)
I want dramatic music for putting fence in

Author Kelly Kincaid (1 month)
Wow sure does look easy by following your video! This design ROCKS!!!!

Author Henri McCarthy (1 month)
Or use a concrete post that never rots 

Author Todd Paroline (3 months)
A+ on marketing. F- product knowledge. Before using this product I would
suggest you talk to a local fence company that can inform you about all the
flaws in this application. There are way too many to list. Do appreciate
the music.

Author Craig Ostlund (2 months)
I like people who think; who challenge convention and the status quo. I
like innovation. I like where you are going with this. As a landscape
contractor I built super fences, the big money kind and the kind that
stayed around and never sagged or fell apart. We did more than 99% of
others because we didn't want to do that kind of work. So, a for my few
comments, I beg your indulgence, with respect.

1. If you go back to your post after a long period of wet weather you will
likely find that despite your excellent efforts the post is wet. Nobody
really seals wood because by its nature it is meant to have capillary
action to convey water up and down while it is living. A proper setting of
any post will leave the bottom of the post resting on a gravel bed to bring
it to proper height and may even have an inch or two of gravel up the
sides. I don't find that necessary but some do. But the open bottom and
around 4" of 3/4" gravel will provide a drain and serve as a conduit to
allow moisture to evaporate. If its capped in concrete at the bottom it
will fill with water to the height of a fracture or porous section. There
it will harbor micro-organisms and have a party. If the concrete manages
not to crack or leak, unusual but it happens, especially if the hole digger
dug a very large hole filling around the post with 2-4" of mix at the
corners, then you have a veritable tub of water, ...till it freezes. And
the upper part of the post which has been soaking in water will freeze
too. This causes expansion of the water as it turn to ice, ripping the
wood fibers apart, a little at a time. So I suggest just let it and bottom.

2. You could use a garden hose on high, pushing it down the side in the
sand and it will cause liquefaction, resulting in a very fluid sandy-water
solution which is easily moved about like quick-sand that gives things
back! In most cases you can lift the post out in a few seconds.

Hope I made sense. I'll give your idea a go. One more thought just hit
me. If the soil shifted and a post needed minor correction, and if your
system was in place, pushing a few pieces of 1/2" tubing down the sides and
turning on the water just might float the sand enough (it literally becomes
liquid) to set it straight.
Or it could be a mean practical joke taking it the other direction!!

Author wiseranjuan (2 days)
treated wood and the concrete always more high then the dirt will give u
longer life to your fence and for the treated wood always use galvanize

Author Ricky Singh (1 month)
Nice system and idea! Just wanted to share a tip for those who are trying
to install posts, instead of using concrete I used this Fast 2K
Demonstration Video. Was a lot faster and easier, this would work well with
the product in this video. Hope this helps.

Author horseshoe182 (3 months)
so you play the music as you put the fence post in, is that right.
but seriously,i think concreting posts is impractical for people on
acreage. well i have a small acreage property with post and rail, and i'm
sick of digging out concreted posts that were put in by the previous
owner.. i put in my posts without concert. and you just ram the earth
around the post as you fill it in. the posts don't move. saves time and
money. if you can get some real clever termites to eat the old broken post
and then smash in a new post in the old concrete hole ,might be good.

Author 2pacnasgame (3 months)
I need a 100 bags asap

Author mikey8strokes (3 months)
very good

Author Bob Broc (5 months)
There is a product called ROTBLOC made from recycled rubber, that can be
custom cut on the job site or retro-fitted to any size wood post,
protecting it from organic fungi, insects and moisture. You can buy it off
of the website. They have a facebook page as well with install photos.

Author Don theford (10 months)
it will last the same concrete or foam it going to hold moister

Author FantastikFences (1 year)
Lol... Really, who came up with this? Not a fence builder... I will not
enumerate the many reasons why this is bananas. I've been building wood
fences for 10 years, all custom all the time (in Canada) & we change posts,
often enough by hand like men. The best part of that video is watching
those trucks pulling posts out. Who works like this??

Author ijustwanttoseetitty (10 months)
The easiest way to do this would be by altering step # 1 slightly, do away
with the wooden post and use a concrete one for a start you cheap skate!

Author TheDeckingnsw (2 years)
gal post why would you use timber

Author easyfencing . (1 year)
#4 as stated a vacuum cleaner or heavy duty tools.. it's a choice. no
offence at all as I said, it is a choice #5 this method is also very
useful if you need to remove the posts temporarily, it gives a degree of

Author Yvette Moore (1 year)
I need to find a way to remove Leylandii stumps and roots without breaking
my back (I have arthritis and no macho bloke around to help) it's either
that or pay the best part of a grand for someone else to do it :o( The wind
here is so awful that putting up panels is pointless. It has to be boards
with a small gap between each. I've been looking but other than elbow
grease (which I'm not physically up to) I've found nowt.

Author easyfencing . (2 years)
approx 15mins extra per post compared to the inevitable alternative of at
least 1 hour extra of hard work and without the need of heavy duty tools
when you need to replace it......

Author mccarty7video (6 months)
What is the piece of music in the beginning of the video? Thanks

Author Heavyboxes (10 months)
It's highly illegal to use sand...let alone vacuum it.

Author cbuddy812 (1 year)
We always just dug a half moon shape on one side of the old post, poped it
loose with a spud bar wrapped a come-a-long around the Crete ball and
cranked it out of the ground. Takes about 5 minutes .if you know what
you're doing...

Author easyfencing . (10 months)
previous post dated 2 years ago "like I said it depends on the custom of
the country and what people are used to. It is not good nor bad, just the
way it is and improvements are there to be considered. Another advantage
of the post socket system is that it can also work for metal or concrete
posts as you can temporarily remove the post should you need to do so e.g.
make room for large machinery (it can happen) . In that case any post would
be in the way. "

Author easyfencing . (1 year)
fence with 10 posts. only one post breaks and only one post needs
repairing. QED

Author easyfencing . (1 year)
This method adds approx $7 per post but saves to buy / hire tools or hire a
professional like you and me at fee of 50~100$, As per the vinyl method try
it and see how well it works. Obviously you haven' tried it, it is just an
idea you put down. As you pull the tight fitting inevitably creates
attrition and pressure areas that makes the job very difficult. A clear
wide gap left by the missing sand solves any problem. Still waiting for
your video of short lived 1/2hp power man Vs 3hp breaker.

Author MrBarefootPookie (1 year)
#4 - To remove an old post that is still intact, dig next to it with post
hole diggers until you reach the bottom, then wiggle it back and forth
until it gets loose and 95% of the time it will pull right up. If the post
is broken, this way will work too but if you cant pull it out use a heavy
duty ratchet strap to wrap tight around it and use a heavy duty bar to pull
up and out. NO offense to the guy who spent time making the video, but
silicone is not the answer. Cement does the job.

Author easyfencing . (1 year)
I mean... have you tried to dig one out? Post duration depends on material
and ground conditions.

Author tango viper (1 year)
Me neither, a much better method is just install galv poles in concrete.
Box them with wood, then build the rest of the fence in traditional
methods. No rotting as no wood is in the earth. This is the way the pro's
do it and the way we fenced my acre. It's not cheap, but it will last.

Author iw63boomer (1 year)
You are correct; post duration does depend on ground conditions. With
minimal concrete, but 36” depth, they are easy to pull. Smack a digging bar
between the post and the concrete – the crete doesn’t bond to the wood so
the post will easily separate. Then I pull them with a cable jack
(come-a-long). I used to do this for a living, so I have the tools and it
ain’t really that difficult!

Author easyfencing . (8 months)
Thank you for the suggestion but your objection has been answered in the
previous posts.

Author easyfencing . (1 year)
Here in the UK they use 4"x4" or 3"x3" (imagine what happens then) and the
plastic bag is designed for that size . Why do you bury the concrete under
1ft of dirt? The post should be kept free of dirt as much as possible as
the dirt retains moisture which feeds the microorganisms responsible for
the rot. That's at least what I see all the time.

Author easyfencing . (3 years)
@specialks1953 if you google boron salt there's a good pdf document on the
website constructionresources. As for the water seeping through, there is a
simple experiment you can try. At minute 3:00 there's a scaled down post
(stick) and socket (water bottle) filled with dry (has to be dry!) sand.
Seal it with ordinary silicon, let it dry and immerse it in water for a few
weeks or months. When I cut the seal the sand was still completely dry,
that's why I went ahead introducing the new method.

Author easyfencing . (3 years)
@easyfencing and you can also try your suggestion with another plastic
bottle by making holes at the bottom of it, see what happens ;-)

Author sinfalacias2009 (2 years)
Mucho trabajo. Lo único que hay que hacer es otro agujero al lado donde
estaba el poste viejo y listo!

Author thomhong (1 year)
Very clever concept AND very clearly presented. I think this method would
work well with metal posts as well .... many times I see metal handrails
installed directly into concrete and then some fathead bends the handrail..
or the handrail rusts severely at just where the metal post goes into the
ground... your configuration would solve this problem.... keep up the great
work !!

Author easyfencing . (1 year)
Deal! As per picture 0:09 broken fence post 2ft deep concreted in with
concrete 7:1 or 5:1, post stomp and concrete out in less than 5 minutes by
using a $20 dollar spud bar. Ready .. steady.. go! Anytime, show us the
way. With my 2.1kW (nearly 3hp) breaker is hard enough when a man can
barely sustain 1/2hp for a short time, simple physics. After seeing your
way I will be eager to try it myself. Your'e still missing the point
though.."ANY homeowner can use a knife and vacuum cleaner etc.."

Author tango viper (1 year)
They make it sound like tearing out the posts is a nightmare. A bobcat can
rip out posts effortlessly. No dangerous pulling with a truck or digging.
And you can rent a bobcat virtually anywhere these days.

Author easyfencing . (2 years)
"Who's complaining if you get paid by the hour for it?" no one is
complaining, the customer has a choice of different methods available in
the market. Post will need to be replaced sooner or later. Up to them how
much they want to spend when it needs to be done

Author easyfencing . (3 years)
@easyfencing the majority of the posts would stay dry and protected
anyway but if you want to cover ALSO the possibility of water seeping into
the sand you can make the water work for you by mixing the dry sand with
preservative boron salts, they are cheap, available and of low toxicity.
The water would dissolve the salts that would in turn feed the wood by
capillarity. See the link to the instructables website on video description
for more info and thank you for your contribution.

Author robz40 (2 years)
@TheDeckingnsw it is cheaper and it looks better, more than 99% of fences
are made using wooden posts

Author easyfencing . (1 year)
Tx... too generous.

Author easyfencing . (1 year)
How about this video done by an American company? watch?v=X0Jv_PV3v98 wood
into concrete?

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