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DIY Home Foundation Repair - Floor Jack in a crawl space



I needed to add support to the floor in the bathroom and after I did a lot of research, I finally made it happen.


Views: 90,345
Added: 3 years
Runtime: 5:44
Comments: 38

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Uploaded by: nx2overide
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Comments:

Author dad567891 (17 days)
just think of it this way when you dig a slab for a floor jack the bigger
the person the bigger the foot so the bigger the slab on the wideness the
better the floor jack will be sustained for that 1 spot

Author dad567891 (17 days)
you do not need to dig down for feet. a depth of 10 inches by 20 inch by 20
inch.would work for one floor jack also that would be a lot less digging

Author eric champagne (4 months)
it is concrete, not cement, concrete is the end product

Author eric champagne (4 months)
no prob bro, i didnt know either until i worked for a concrete company in
florida

Author PorkyLovesMud (5 months)
After using these jacks to get the floor in place before placing a
permanent beam, I'm not so sure I'd leave them for any time at all. They
were not exactly sturdy by themselves. 

Author xxhaimbondxx (2 years)
Just installed one of these under my floor in the crawl space and thought I
take a look at the webs and see the proper way it should of been done.
Stumbled upon your video and seems like the only difference is that I
didn't dig a hole and filled it with cement. I did, however, used the same
cinder block with a piece of 2 x6.The instructions however stated that if
you are supporting a wood structure, the jack should be up side down. The
larger pipe of the jack on top and the screw on the bottom.

Author chrisbogdan (3 years)
ah... the redneck drain.... its only a drain... no biggie... LOL

Author lolibla (3 years)
Good video. However, temporary jack posts are not recommend and will not
pass a home inspection. Search Google for "Inspecting Adjustable Steel
Columns" and read the first article. It is a good read and source on
Permanent jack posts.

Author chadandhayleysmom (1 year)
Can't see what it looks like at the top or how you raise it once in place

Author chris w (3 years)
dude this what I am fucking doing. thanks I have brick walls cracking and
floor saging and shifting away from left side of house. I know I can fix it
correctly I have no choice. Old house in great location has had main center
support beem cut for bad centrail HVAC and litterly braced with a tree
stump thats cracking your my hero I Will saddly sit next to a lesser floor
jack soon

Author junkyardnut (1 year)
There is differnt types of deck blocks at hardware. I lke the most
expensive ones as it is obviously poured with fine Portland concrete mix.
The cheaper ones are more coarse on surface while the most expenisve ($9)
is more fine on surface and looks stronger to the eye.

Author TikaFo (3 years)
I watched this video.

Author Katfellow (3 years)
That's pretty cool, I may need to do stuff like that within the next few
years, it's good to see that at least some of it can be done on my own.

Author nx2overide (3 years)
@lolibla good to know.. thanks for the post.

Author hwugh1 (2 years)
Nice one. So many times we home owners have to "Boldly Go Where no Man Has
Gone Before" (Or hasn't been there since the house was built...). You took
the time to consider others in the same scenario and brought along your
video camera/light. Please carry on turning crisis into opportunity. 8-)

Author J. Michael Haithcock (3 years)
last year i had my floors jacked and had piers were added and i had some
cracks around doors. they did good, but 6 months later they fell again,
then they came again and jacked up the floors, but again, they fell, they
never returned my call. i reported them to angie's list. several months ago
i shaved my doors so they would close, the cracks are still visiable, need
to patch up. so many companies do not take pride in there work. i have a
1972 home.

Author Norma Edmisten -Hobgood (1 year)
I am going to have to have this done to my house. I live in Oklahoma and I
do not know what a decent bid would be to get this done

Author junkyardnut (1 year)
I mean watering the hole and make mud in the bottom before you level the
concrete deck block in . While it is wet in the mud, you can go ahead and
jack up the floor and let the weight settle the block down as you keep
raising it. Be sure there is no rock or junk at least a foot below the
bottom oft the dug hole so the block will not be cracked from anything hard
below..You can put in sand to replace the mud instead. Sand is good for
supporting concrete blocks as it is more forgiving as dry.

Author nx2overide (1 year)
Thanks for the info. ;)

Author chrisbogdan (3 years)
welcome to the world of construction... lol... I've done stuff like
this.... a few times...

Author mightyachillies (1 year)
Thanks for the video. Having been through the Northridge Quake, I will bolt
the device down.

Author nx2overide (3 years)
@805ROADKING yep i had to buy a small shovel.. took forever to dig it out :)

Author RichardRoy2 (3 years)
Damn, that looks like fun; NOT! Did you clear out the spiders and webs and
anything else living there before you started digging and stuff?

Author Frank H (2 years)
You can use them you just need to buy the ones designed for permanent
usage.

Author watchulla (1 year)
Thank You. My husband said he couldn't find a video with crawl space
instructions.

Author 805ROADKING (3 years)
I bet that was fun diggin' the footing and filling it with concrete in that
tight area eh!!☺

Author junkyardnut (1 year)
Well, you can use at least 4" BY 6" Post with anchor bolts set in concrete
. Drill the bottom end of the post to slip over the anchor bolt . You can
slip in a metal sleeve as a extra protection against the anchor bolt thread
end. You will need a thick drill bit like 3/4" to drill the hole. I dont
understand why the deck concrete blocks available at hardware stores are
mentioned as a quicker way of putting in the concrete. All you need to do
is to dig a hole and water it before placing it in.

Author Franklin Collins (5 months)


Author SusieQ Gallagher (11 months)
Hey thanks a load! I was just searching on here how to do some things to a
1836 house I have. It's nothing but hard work and man it is fun to learn
from others on some of this stuff that is NOT in home imp. books! Thanks
again for sharing.

Author Steve W (9 months)
Why didn't you just scab two 2x6's on either side of the joists? Is it
because there's a wall sitting on top of the sagging floor? My kitchen wall
(NOT load bearing) is sagging so bad that it warped the wall out of square.
I'm getting ready to replace the kitchen cabinets anyway, so I'm going to
gut the kitchen and remove the wall. I will then use a hydraulic floor jack
to raise the sagging floor joists and sandwich the sagging joists with two
2x6"'s on either side of each joist, carriage bolted in, then rebuild the
stud wall. That way I don't have to mess with concrete etc.

Author Chris Woolfe (10 months)
You said there is a hole 3 to 4 feet deep filled with concrete. How did you
dig a hole that deep in that small crawlspace? I thought about using a two
man hole digger http://www.homedepot.com/c/lawn_rental_equipment
If not that then it would be hours with a hand shovel. :-/ How did you do
it? 

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